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3 months agoDon’t do welding, or pipe fitting. Speaking from the counsel of family whose profession was this (and they were one of the best, truly). In their own words they’d never advise anyone to go into that these days.
To do things over, as much as they loved it, they said they’d probably join the sparkies. Electrician or lineman.
Meanwhile hvac trade is a wash with really terrible people, the most conservative trade, low union, and highly variable in competency.
Can I bitch about something since you’re an appliance repair tech (not at you, just with you)?
GE french-door fridge, freezer. Less than 3-years-old. Freezer drawer.
Evap fan goes out. It’s pretty corroded. I do wonder if someone spilled something in the back of fridge but I can’t see a sign of residue beside the corrosion (Still, no protective shroud above the fan from fluids dripping down the back). Bench-tested it; dead. Condensate drain seems fine. Order $100 replacement. Still doesn’t turn on. I know control boards can fail from a result of this, too. I check output power from board, and it all seems good. Tested new fan; it’s good too.
Before this, I realize the evaporator connector harness is flush with the floor of the fridge and downstream of the condensate drain pan. Water literally pooled in the 6-prong connector harness that is sealed into the floor of the freezer. Dried it out, cleaned it off as best as I could with CRC QD cleaner, etc. but I’m not getting the same voltage I’m getting on the 12V red from the board – closer to 6 – which I can only deduce means a short or corroded connector underneath the freezer… So now gotta cut it out.
I’m not the only one who’s had issues with this, and it reallllllly feels not just like a poor design but planned obsolescence.
The sad thing is that as far as I can tell, GE is probably still the best fridge company for bang for buck? Maybe LG or BOSCH if willing to pay premium?